High speed travelling

According to the guidebook Sibuyan island is supposed to be an amazing place for snorkeling and diving with nice beaches and beautiful reefs. It isn't. The island itself is beautiful with Mount Guiting Guiting in the middle and quite a big forest coverage. The beaches we saw were rocky or muddy between mangroves and for snorkeling you have to go far to find reefs. We did exactly that one day, the owner of the place we stayed invited us to join him on a speedboat (everything that floats, has an engine and doesn't look like a bangka is a speedboat) to do a daytrip to the Isla de Gallo some 45 minutes away. We agreed after some hard haggling together with a fellow traveller and spent some nice hours on the uninhabited island which consists of sand and some bushes. He also brought some meat to barbecue (for free he kept repeating. Not really, we paid quite a sum for this trip...) and a bottle of brandy. Also off this island there were no corals so on the way back we stopped at the surrounding reef and had some good snorkeling. In the end we saw some fishes and he was drunk and happy.

San Fernando isn't touristy. Absolutely not. There's a homestay straight ahead from the pier and the place we stayed "Sea breeze", at the western end of town. There are two small "restaurants" whose opening hours we couldn't figure out and a market. And you are a sight there if you're white. We soon saw that there wasn't much for us to do (no, we don't want to climb that mountain, thank you) and the food options were really, really bad for a vegetarian, so we tried to figure out how to leave the island. The book says there's a ferry everyday from San Fernando to Romblon island. There isn't. It's from Magdiwang on the north coast. We missed the jeepney that left 5am because we had no clue that day that there is one and after we were accused by the owner of being too lazy to get up early we got ourselves a tricycle for 600 pesos all the way to Magdiwang. It took 1.5 hours along the east coast and was very scenic and bumpy, exactly how it should be. Happy to be on the way again we checked the boat schedule at the pier and got some guesthouses pointed out by a lady in a stall. We picked one of them, "Beach house", and got a room for 150 each. That night the parking lot suddenly started to fill up with tricycles and pick ups, people everywhere. The guy who checked in next to us solved the mystery, he was the personal security chief of the governor of Romblon province and this night was big election party (free beers = free votes?). He also invited us to go to Romblon island the next day aboard the yacht of the governor. We accepted.

The next morning we got up early enough to catch the regular ferry (our backup plan) because we didn't really think it would work out with the yacht and it didn't in the end. And we thought this yacht will probably be a big, nice bangka but no, it was a shiny white yacht and probably the reason the ring road around Sibuyan is only half concrete before the money run out... (our point of view). Instead we left aboard a big Montenegro Lines ferry and we were happy to be finally in an area where the services don't only consist of bangkas.

Arriving in Romblon town on Romblon island is quite impressive. First the ferry navigates around several islands and then enters the natural harbour of Romblon town. The guide book says it's one of the prettiest towns in the Philippines. Well that's just crap. We followed our guide book again and ended up in a place surrounded by 8 angry dogs where once a guesthouse was. Several years ago. So we kept going along the road for about 7 kms until we arrived at San Pedro resort on Talipasak beach where we hoped to find a cheapie on an unspoiled beach. Sounds impossible? We found it! Thanks to the guide book, I have to say, we got ourselves a big bungalow a bit above the water in a forest for 700 pesos. And the beach was world class! The snorkeling was decent, also a lot of signs of dynamite fishing but the area is protected now and happily there are still corals left. The rock formations at the left end of the beach were quite impressive under water. Also there was some improvement, loads of concrete structures have been sunk as basis for new corals and they also destroy the nets of fishermen who are not allowed to fish there. We enjoyed four days there and then decided to keep moving, our time was running out. Only 3 weeks left in the Philippines!

Again, a bangka brought us over to Tablas island to a town called San Agustin. From there we rode a jeepney roof to Looc, mostly along the coast with some priceless views. In Looc we stayed over night because the bangka only leaves in the morning to our next goal, Carabao island. In the morning we first had to catch a jeepney to Santa Fe from where the bangka was leaving. No one knew exactly when the jeepney was supposed to leave Looc, 07:00 or 08:00 was mostly the answer. We thought 07:00 is the better bet and the jeepney was indeed already filling up. We got seats inside this time but we didn't leave until all 12'657 passengers were aboard. Then we left to fill up the tank. Then we went back to Looc to pick up more people and cargo, mostly rice. I calculated that at least 2'000kg of rice were loaded onto the roof which was only made of some leftover steel bars and tin. How can that work? No one knows but it does (I think it's the paint that gives that extra stability). 20 minutes before our bankga was due to leave we left Looc for a journey that takes at least an hour. But the bankga won't leave without all this passengers, the driver said. Good!

The 1.5 hours to Carabao were easy enough and a guy we met on the boat gave us a ride on his and his nephew's bike to a resort on the west coast. "Is this your aunt working here"?, I asked. "No, my nephew's sister". "So everyone is somehow related to everyone here on Carabao"? "Basically, yes". And true enough in all the conversations with the staff in the resort there were all the time people referred to "uncle" or "grandfather" or "sister-in-law" and so on. The beach was again brillant but the snorkeling that the guide book mentions as terrific and all the people that come here from Boracay only because of that wasn't true again. Nothing terrific and no one from Boracay. Not one boat. The reef looked like Hiroshima 60 years ago, all nice levelled out. We still managed to keep ourselves busy with snorkeling and always found new stuff. We also did a beach dive with a Swiss divemaster. There we could clearly see that all the corals a bit deeper were in ok condition whereas the ones in dynamiting distance weren't. Climate change and tsunamis were the normal explanations for the destroyed reefs. Sure, this all doesn't help and also does a lot of damage but it doesn't make big holes in reefs, does it? Even the government says that 40% of Philippine's reefs are in poor condition. That's truly shocking! What surprised us the most was that the further away from tourism you go, the worse the reef conditions are. It's probably not the best when the police or national park officer is related to everyone on the island... (our opinion).

Then came the question whether to visit Boracay, the next island, or not. Since we started our travels in the Philippines, the question we heard the most, was "have you been to Boracay yet?". Every local that works there or worked there says it's horrible, overcrowded and expensive. We could maybe deal with one but that didn't sound good. But we also thought that all these tourists don't probably go there for nothing. In the end we voted for no. An early morning bangka (sounds repetitive?) brought as straight to Caticlan on Panay island. On the way we drove past Boracay and it's white beach, it does look amazing! But everything also looks so clean and man made that it doesn't quite seem to be a place for two penny pinchers like us. From Caticlan it took us 5 hours in a minivan to Iloilo. There we got dropped off at the pier where we were able to catch the next ferry to Bacolod on Negros island. The ferry felt like a spaceship out of the 80's compared to our usual bangka.

In Bacolod we found a decent place to sleep (with aircon an tv!) and after 2 hours of walking through the city for a vegetarian place we crashed in front of the tv and got a good night's sleep. Ceres liner brought us to Dumaguete in one of their buses in about 6 hours. The whole island seems to be planted with sugar cane, they even call it sugarlandia. Dumaguete we found quite nice, it's also an important port at Negros east coast. There are ferries to Cebu, Bohol and Siquijor as well as bangkas to Apo island. We thought about doing some diving there from Dumaguete as the prices are the same as on the island but we do love snorkeling and needed some time out from traveling. The next day we hopped on a bus to Malatapay from where the bangkas leave to Apo island. The guys in charge of the boats try to persuade tourists to charter a private bangka, because the next regular and cheaper one leaves in several hours, they say. But after so long on the road and in the Philippines in particular we knew the games already and after an hour wait we got a cheap ride on a tiny bangka. Pretty soaked we arrived on Apo island which was bigger than we expected. There's no pier, everyone has to walk over the slippery rocks covered in sea urchins and one of us did quite a dance on the slippery stuff. The only affordable option for people like us is a homestay, ours was called Ronor's, bright orange and a bit back in the village. Before the sun disappeared we had to go and see how the snorkeling is on this highly prized island. We barely managed to swim out, it was low, low, low tide but what we saw in the disappearing light was just enough to bring wet dreams upon a snorkeler!

 

12-month special: why we love travelling

In the beginning of our travels we thought that we would be lucky if we could stretch our money for a year. Today, it has been exactly a year since our planes landed in Buenos Aires, and we still have enough savings to keep us going for a few more months. To celebrate this, we want to look back to the countries we travelled and think about the best things we have experienced so far and the things that keep us going.

Here are twelve things that make us love what we do.

1. Trekking in nature. One of the biggest highlights on these travels was our 5-day trek in the Amazon rainforest in Madidi National Park, Bolivia. Being chased by wild pigs, eaten by ants and mosquitos, being exhausted because of the heat and getting soaked in tropical rain was all worth it. Falling asleep to the sounds of the jungle, waking up to the sound of the river, staring at the campfire for hours and eating banana chips for dinner were among the best experiences of our life. And that is only one of the amazing nature experiences. There would be so many others to list.

 

2. Eating local. Llama steaks, empanadas, fresh fruit juices, mangoes, yucca soup, potatoes, fried eggplants, spicy tofu in tomato sauce, chicken feet, rice cooked over a fire in a bamboo stick, South American wine and local beers. Food is a big part of what you experience, and we can't get enough of different flavours. Not all of it to our liking and sometimes you just crave for a fucking sandwich, but mostly it's all about eating like locals.

 

3. Learning the language. Sabaidee! Xie-xie! Salamat! Buenas dias! Terima kasih! The least we can do when we decide to go to another country is to learn hello and thank you in local language. Mostly you don't need much, because everywhere you go, some English is spoken, but knowing at least those two basics usually works as an ice breaker and what better, you might actually cheer someone up a little. How many times did we get a huge smile and a laugh when saying thank you to the lady behind the counter? Many. It's not only polite, it's fun! In Bolivia we did a language course for two weeks to learn Spanish, and what a difference it made! When we made it as far as Colombia, people never stopped talking with us when they realised that we can actually make up a few basic sentences and pretend to understand the rest.

 

4. Making new friends. Travelling is not travelling if you don't meet people, exchange tips and opinions, spend long nights over a beer or ten or waking up in a bus leaning on the shoulder of someone who's name you can't even remember. After a few days of travelling with someone you often feel like you've known them for years. We met so many amazing people on during this year: Jörg, Hanna, Taniela and Hugo, Alex, Adam and Paul just to mention a few. And that is only the fellow travellers. There are so many locals who we got to know, learning about their lives and had great conversations with. Some of the people you meet stay in your life in one way or another, some go, but you'll remember them forever.

 

5. Spending more to make dreams come true. Who has not always dreamt of going to the Galapagos islands? Visiting the Angkor Wat or Machu Picchu? Scuba diving in crystal clear waters? One of our basic principles is that if it's worth it, do it. Most of the time we try to live cheap, so it mostly means sleeping cheap and eating cheap. But when it comes to activities, we do what we want. If there is extraordinary scuba diving, we do it. If it is a once in a lifetime destination, it is worth to do it properly. For us that meant staying in Machu Picchu from sunrise to sunset, spending two days in Iguazu falls and buying a 3-day ticket to Angkor Wat. Our most expensive activity was the Galapagos islands, when we spent 1200 euros each in 14 days. That makes 85 euros a day. That is way over double the normal budget, but when you think about it later, it was worth every cent.

 

6. Sunsets. Sunsets? You could stay home to enjoy those, right? Sure. But sunsets are the time when you really think about it all. You go through the day (or year) in your head when sitting on a remote beach somewhere, sand under your feet, waves crashing in front of you and the bright red sunset of the humid tropics somewhere above you. That is the moment when you really realise how amazing this planet can be.

 

7. Renting a place with a kitchen. Okay, so we said eating local is the key to exciting travelling. Yep, it is, but sometimes you get tired of being constantly hungry and tired and hunting for a cheap place to eat and you just want to make yourself at home. What helps here is cooking. We had a great time in places where we had a chance to cook our own food. Not only does it bring a little reality to travelling, it might also be your only chance of getting the food you want. And what a great way to try local ingredients! We still haven't forgotten our time in Cusco and the disaster of a soup that never seemed to cook because of the altitude, and the black corn that coloured the whole thing dark purple. Yummy.

 

8. Public transport. We've never been huge fans of flying. Not only is it expensive and bad for the environment, you don't see any of the country if you only fly from city to city. Sometimes though it is the only way to reach a destination in a reasonable time. But most of the time we try to catch a bus, tuk-tuk, tricycle, jeepney, train or a trufi. Not only the best way to admire the landscapes, you also get an idea how the locals do it. You get to joke with them, play with their babies, stop for a drink in the most random shack in the middle of nowhere and go to places you didn't even know that they existed. Sometimes it means holding your pee for ten hours and then finally pee alongside everyone behind the only bush available. Sitting on the roof of a jeepney and getting smashed against the steel roof every time the driver hits a hole while trying to avoid powerlines and tree branches and knowing that in case of an accident your chances are not the best. Breaking down three times withing a few hours, freezing to the point where you can't feel your toes anymore, but we love it, and not always can we explain why.

 

9. Not planning too much. A little bit of planning is good. We always have some sort of guidebook with us to help with this. What makes this kind of travelling amazing, is the freedom of going anywhere you want. Anywhere! Best of it all though is the freedom to abandon a plan and doing something completely different instead if the first plan doesn't seem to make sense anymore. It means not always knowing where you will sleep tonight, not remembering what the place you spent the last night was called and feeling so amazingly free that it is hard to explain to people on a 2-week planned holiday. Nothing against that either, but it is different.

 

10. Change of values. When your daily budget is about 25 euros, you start to think different about what you spend your money on. And you really start to think, when you meet someone, who could feed his family for a month with the amount of money a tourist pays for one night in a midrange hotel room. You meet someone who makes more money driving you around for 10 dollars a day than fishing 15 kilos of shrimp, and you realise how much you get paid back home.

 

11. Smiling. If you're lost, hungry, angry, tired or all of those, don't forget this one simple thing: smiling. Help in any situation is guaranteed, when you remain calm, polite and give a little smile even if it is the last thing you feel like doing. Do it, and the response might make you forget that you were feeling bad in the first place.

12. Travel buddy. We met in Australia 2006 and since then travelled together every now and then. Back then we both travelled alone, and we know how it's like. There are good and bad sides to that. The good side is that you meet more people because you have to be active to find company. You end up having amazing conversations and a good laugh and making new friends. On the other hand, you often end up hanging out with people, whose interests are different to yours and you have to compromise a lot just to have company. We have the luxury of travelling with a companion that you trust, know better than anyone and you are interested in the same things. When we have the option to do it like this, we wouldn't change it for anything.

 

Jeepney, bangka, tricycle, minivan, bangka, bangka, bangka,...

Our next destination was the island group of Visayas. We chose the more remote island of Sibuyan as our starting point. We left Donsol hoping to catch a boat to Masbate city, on Masbate island. From there we could take another boat to Romblon, we hoped. Only a two hour boat ride away we arrived in Masbate, only to be told that there is no boat. We would have to drive in a minivan to another city, Mandaon, to catch a boat the next day. Easy, right? After two hours of stunning drive through the island we arrived at the pier. A coast guard told us that there was only a boat on Wednesday and Sunday mornings. It was Wednesday evening now. Shit! We had just missed it. The friendly guard made some phone calls, and found out that there was a boat tomorrow to Roxas, a bigger place on Panay island, with better boat connections. We would have to take the 5 am minivan to the Milagros crossing, and from there we could take a tricycle to the pier and we should make it to the boat. Quite early, we thought, because it was already 7 pm. We hadn't eaten anything all day, simply because we couldn't find a place to eat. All we had was some crackers and soft drinks. It was time to find a place to eat and sleep, fast. The guard saved our asses again, pointing us towards a guesthouse. Or so we thought. We checked in, had dinner, and by the time we got back in the room, ready for bed, the whole room had been taken over by a cockroach colony. They were everywhere! Usually we are not so worried about a few insects, but these things were all over the place, coming from under the doors, from the sink and from the hole in the shower room. They had taken over the backpacks, so we had to repack everything and chase the things out. There were so many that we couldn't sleep before we had taken all of them out and closed the holes with tape and carpets. We went to bed just to be awake all the time with something crawling on our faces. We ended up leaving for the 5 am minivan without any sleep. What a great start for the day.

 

The lucky thing was that the minivan was actually at 5:30, so we had time to grab a few bread rolls from a bakery which for some reason was already open. We also found a banana and water. At least this day started with breakfast! And again we took the same beautiful road! Enjoying the early morning rural life with pigs, goats, chicken and dogs running around the streets, we made it to Milagros in a bit more than an hour. Someone grabbed our luggage, and carried them to the boat. We tipped him a 50, and after buying tickets he took us to a coffee shop where we spent a while drinking instant coffee and watching tv with the not so talky owner. Next door was a little restaurant, where we could get food. Great! Food! That was something new. We knew the bangka ride would be at least six hours, possibly more, so we were happy to get something to eat before the journey. It was only 7 am and we were already eating rice and warm food. And they even had a vegetarian option for Anni! We had plenty of time, the boat was supposed to leave at nine.

 

As soon as we saw the boat filling up, we thought it would be wise to go reserve seats. First come, first serve, applies to the boat rides in the Philippines. As soon as there is no seats left, it doesn't mean that the boat is full. It means that the last people sit on the outside space, in the sun. That's exactly what happened to us on the last bangka to Masbate. That was okay, the ride being only two hours, but we thought six or seven or eight or whatever it was going to be, would be too long for that. So we waited another hour in the boat, watching the motorbikes, pigs and goats being loaded on the boat, before it actually took off. Leaning on the backpacks or lying on the little space outside in the sun, half covered with tarp, we managed to get a few hours of sleep before we arrived in Roxas.

 

We were happy to find out that we could take another bangka to our final destination, Sibuyan island, tomorrow morning. Finally! The constant moving was coming closer to an end. We were exhausted and checked in to the first and only hotel we could find. We ended up paying way over our budget for the "only available room", a junior suite, for 1500 pesos in Midtown Hotel. We were too tired to care. Nobody seemed to know of any other place. So we just got dinner and went back to the room. At least the beds were soft and the shower was warm. Little luxuries count for a lot after such an exhausting journey.

 

The 8 hours of sleep and a shower were much needed. Still tired, we took off again for the last boat ride. It was going to be another 5 or 6 hours to San Fernando on Sibuyan island. We got there about half an hour before the bangka took off and because the boat had a covered rooftop and the last rides had been nice and calm, we decided to sit on the roof. Theoretically a good idea, just the waves were huge this time and everything and everyone ended up being soaked. At least we had rain covers for our backpacks. Once during the trip we managed to climb over the roof to the toilet on the other side of the boat, the second time never came because it was too scary. But we made it to San Fernando alive! We checked into a home stay called Sea Breeze. We were ready for bed, again.

 

We never realised how slow moving in the islands could be. We had been constantly hungry, tired and uncomfortable for days. We knew we were moving too fast, but with the limited time and huge amount of interesting places to see, we had no other option. Also, getting food seems to be a problem. There simply are no restaurants. All they sell are fruit, mostly bananas, and sweet stuff, like cookies and sweet bread. Another option is meat. You can always find grilled meat or chicken, but Anni is vegetarian and it just is not an option for her. Finally, we were where we wanted to be, in a guesthouse where we could use the kitchen, and we didn't have to go anywhere in a few days. We were happy.

 

 

Surfing, diving and chasing whale sharks

At five in the morning we were somewhere in Manila, in a taxi, circling around the city, the driver stopping at several bus stations to ask if they had a bus going south soon. Finally we found one that was just leaving and quickly stuffed our backpacks on the passenger seats and jumped in. We were tired but happy to be out of Manila before the famously horrible traffic got too crazy. Didn't really sound like an attractive city to us, so we decided from the beginning to avoid it if we could. Success.

In a few hours we were in a city called Tagaytay, where you can see the Taal volcano from a viewpoint. We hadn't planned to climb it or do a boat cruise around it (which about half of the city's population seemed to want to sell us one way or another), so we thought we'd just stop on the way, sit down, have a look, and keep going again. It was the weekend before the Catholic Holy week, so trying to find a place to stay so close to Manila didn't sound too appealing. So we got a tricycle which took us to the viewpoint. After resting a while, enjoying the view and a cup of coffee we drove back and tried to find a bus to Batangas. A friendly guy standing at the bus stop threw us into some bus, and it still is a mystery to us how we managed to change buses in the right place and get a minivan which took us right to the Batangas pier. Somehow we were where we wanted to be. We had had no food all day, no sleep last night and we were happy to be so close to our final destination. So we went in and got our tickets out of Luzon island to Mindoro.

Ready for bed already, our day wasn't over. After two hours on a bangka (Filipino type of boat) we arrived in Mindoro island's White Beach. It looked horrible. Bars, loud music and too many people is not what we are looking for on an island. So we had to find a quieter place. We took a tricycle to Talipanan beach, which, according to our guidebook, "is for people looking for real solitude". Sounded good. As soon as we arrived we knew that it was our kind of place. After a bit of walking around and comparing prices we half accidentally managed to haggle a family house with a kitchen and tv on the beach for 800 pesos a night from Mountain Beach Resort! That was a bargain, especially over the easter. Finally it was time for food and sleep! Oh no, first shopping and cooking... It had indeed been a long, long day. If only we'd known then how many days like that we would have in the Philippines.

We were really happy that we had found our easter hideaway. We spent the days snorkeling off Talipanan beach, where we found a nice coral reef. We did a couple of dives as well with Badladz dive company, which we would recommend. Nice people and small groups, just the two of us with a divemaster. We got to dive the Sabang wrecks, which consist of 3 tiny wrecks shattered on the ocean bottom, 1 of them being more or less in recognisable shape and you can even swim through if the current isn't to much for you, as it was for us. Great dive though, because there we saw our first ever frogfish! Crazy creatures! We also did a dive at Monkey beach, which was absolutely clear water, beautiful colors and thousands of fish! Water was freezing though. Every time after snorkeling or diving we were shivering! Not what we had expected with these hot days.

Our mission for Easter was also to extend our visa. We found out that there was an immigraton office in Puerto Galera, 20-minute tricycle drive away from Talipanan. So we got that done. This time it was no hassle like in the embassy in Singapore, no dress codes or anything, and the whole thing took about 20 minutes. So we had another 5 weeks in the Philippines. Great!

Ready to keep moving again, we left Mindoro and took a bangka back to Batangas on Luzon island. From there we had to change minivans and buses and tricycles several times, but in the evening after about 10 hours of travelling we made it to Bagasbas beach, close to Daet. It is a place famous for surfers and everything there is indeed about surfing. We found a room for 500 pesos from a nice guesthouse called Surfer's Dine Inn, where we stayed for four days, mostly swimming, bodyboarding and surfing (or trying to, to be honest). It was suddenly low season and the experienced surfers were somewhere else catching the big waves and the whole beach was left mostly to beginners like us. Which was great! No pressure, just rent a board and off you go! Good fun. We managed to catch some waves and stand on the board. We had done a surfing lesson 7 years ago in Australia but that was about it. The waves here were perfect and easy to catch even as a beginner. And the best thing was that the water temperature was good again! We had been freezing on Mindoro, but apparently the change from the South China sea to the Pacific side made all the difference. The water was almost too warm, but that's not really a reason to complain, is it?

From Bagasbas we went to what was supposed to be the highlight of our trip: swimming with whale sharks in Donsol, which has the highest concentration of whale sharks in the world. Or had, we should say. We arrived in Donsol after another long day in the bus just to find out that there had barely been any sightings in the last two months! 4 sharks a day over the Easter but barely any since then. The boat hire would be expensive and there were at least 30 boats going at a time, more than 90 a day. Only one boat is allowed to approach the whale shark at a time, which is good though, but that means that with even one sighting a day the chances of actually getting anywhere near it are very, very low. We stayed in a homestay, a place called Santiago. There we talked to other people who had tried it and everyone came back disappointed. There were no whale sharks. For a moment we thought about doing it anyway, but then we abandoned the idea. There just didn't seem to be a point for going. Very disappointed, we packed our bags to leave the next day. It was time to leave Luzon island for good.

 

Do's and dont's of March

This month we recommend:

Carrying a roll of tape in buses

Singapore Zoo! It's a must. (Pandas!)

Food (hygiene and selection) in Singapore

Spending more than 21 days in the Philippines

AirAsia (for the prices, not for much else)

Anni's hair cutting skills

Cooking your own meals

Having your own gear for snorkeling

 

This month we do NOT recommend:

weird roommates

Asian bread

Holy week and the amounts of tourists it brings

Philippine embassy

Singapore prices

Coffee mate (coffee creamer)

Instant coffee

Turtle soup